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от engola engola - Четверг, 23 Октябрь 2025, 19:06
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Zenith Launches the Defy Skyline Tourbillon 160th Anniversary Edition in All Rose Gold

 

2025 marks Zenith's 160th anniversary, and to date, we've seen a series of celebratory watches, including the GFJ and, more recently, the Defy Zero G in lapis lazuli. Until now, blue has been the signature color of the year, but that's about to change with the release of the Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon 160th Anniversary Edition in rose gold and brick red.

This watch pays tribute to Zenith's historic watchmaking facility in Le Locle, Switzerland. The starry red dial is inspired by the building's brickwork, giving it a rich, burnt terracotta feel. The dial features a sunray pattern that radiates from the tourbillon at 6 o'clock, echoing the arc of the four-pointed star. This contrasts sharply with the blue-black dial of the existing Defy Skyline Tourbillon, adding its first warm color to the otherwise cool collection.

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This warmth extends to the case as well. This is the first Skyline watch crafted entirely in rose gold, giving the collection a fresh take on the precious metal. It's beautifully presented, with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces that bring the multi-faceted case and integrated bracelet to life. Like the Defy collection, sporty fashion watches have a long history, with examples like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus crafted in yellow gold. Compared to more practical steel models, these watches exude a sense of prestige. After all (while the Defy may not be as high-end as an AP or PP), these watches are considered status symbols in their own right, so why not try to match the material?

The gold case here is paired with matching hands, hour markers, and a tourbillon mechanism. If you're not familiar with a tourbillon (which I doubt, given that you're reading "Oracle Time"), it's a device that allows a watch's hairspring to rotate on its axis. This allows the hairspring to maintain its motion relative to gravity even while remaining in the same position, thereby improving its isochronism—an issue Zenith also addresses in the Zero G. While tourbillons don't rotate at a universal speed, many watchmakers design them to rotate every 60 seconds so they can double as a small seconds dial—which is what Zenith does here, as indicated by the small dot on one of the tourbillon arms, which acts as a seconds hand.

The tourbillon is powered by the automatic El Primero 3630 caliber, which also powered the original Defy Skyline Tourbillon. As part of the El Primero collection, it boasts a 60-hour power reserve and operates at a high frequency of 5Hz. A transparent caseback reveals the skeletonized oscillating weight and the radiant Côtes de Genève decoration.

While this ultimately amounts to a repackaging of the standard tourbillon model, it adds a significant visual impact to the watch. It's dynamic and impressive, breaking with the industrial feel of the traditional steel integrated bracelet design. Furthermore, it successfully pays homage to the brand's 160th anniversary without losing its sensuality.

 

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MB & F Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO Seddiqi 75th Anniversary

Model: Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon
Reference Number: 18.9301.3630/67.I001
Case: 41mm diameter, rose gold
Dial: Brick red sunray finish, engraved four-pointed star radiating from the tourbillon aperture, rose gold hands and indexes filled with Super-LumiNova SLN C1
Water Resistance: 100 meters (10 bar)
Movement: Zenith El Primero 3630
Frequency: 36,000 vph (5 Hz)
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon
Strap: Rose gold H-shaped bracelet with folding clasp, additional brick red rubber strap